Growing Mexican Pinguicula
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Mexican Pinguicula such as Pinguicula moranensis, Pinguicula moctezumae, and Pinguicula agnata are some of the easier butterworts to grow. These species have heterophyllous leaves--the summer leaves are carnivorous while the winter leaves are succulent and not carnivorous. The plants like warm humid conditions when in the summer, carnivorous state. During the winter when they are in the succulent state they should be kept cooler and drier.

There is some controversy over the best way to grow Mexican Pinguicula. Techniques that some growers swear by are death in other hands. Mexican Pinguicula are NOT bog plants and should not be grown like bog plants. In the wild, many Mexican Pinguicula grow in seasonal fog forests on limestone cliffs and tree trunks. Some grow in moss, others just cracks in the rocks. Plants in the standard peat and sand "CP mix" may or may not do well depending on your exact conditions and which species or hybrid you have. To understand more about the lives of Mexican Pinguicula please see the travelogues at World of Pinguicula.

I find the best mix is one part each of peat, coarse sand, and perlite. Dolomitic or limestone sand would be best if you can get it. Some growers may use vermiculite but it breaks down quickly requiring you to repot often. Ground bark might actually be better than peat since it would be less acidic. I use silica sand blasting sand in the mix because that is what I can get in quantity, put a 2-3 mm layer of coarse dolomitic lime (a soil amendment found in garden shops) and/or limestone sand (found in the lizard section of a pet shop) on the top of the soil in a pot then mix it in to a depth of 2 cm. After planting the plants I then put a layer of silica sand on the surface of the soil up to 5 mm thick to discourage fungus gnats which like to eat Pinguicula leaves. I plant all my Pinguicula in 9 cm tall plastic pots and grow them using the classic tray method. When the plants have carnivorous leaves I use a water depth of up to 4 cm in the trays. When the plants are in the succulent phase I keep the water level lower but never dry. I have been growing a number of species and hybrids this way next to a window in my house for five years without repotting. Many of the hybrids bloom constantly.

To grow Pinguicula long term you need to find a technique that works in your situation with the species or hybrids you have. In general, under humid conditions or if your plants get top watered you need to use looser or drier soil mix than a situation like I have where humidity is very low and the plants are never top watered. Under humid greenhouse conditions I would add more perlite to the soil mix. Also read the section at World of Pinguicula about growing Pinguicula keeping in mind the most serious growers have greenhouses and you probably don't and that makes a big difference.

For good germination the seeds need temperatures between 15°C and 25°C (60°F to 80°F). To prepare a pot to start your seeds, fill it most of the way to the top with your favorite mix with the top cm being a sifted part of your mix so it is finer. Place the seed on the surface of the medium and don't bury it. The soil should be damp and not sopping wet. You may want to put the pot in a plastic bag if your environment is dry. You get better control germinating seeds under lights although in the shade of a greenhouse works. Seeds germinate in 4 to 8 weeks.

Do NOT use any kind of fungicide or pesticide on Pinguicula. This includes all Pinguicula. I don't know why but fungicides especially are death. Pesticides on the soil appear to be OK but not on the leaves.

To maintain these species long term they need seasonal light cues and the seasonal changes in moisture. The seasonal changes are cued by light, not moisture. Water the plants according to the leaf type, not season. When the plants have carnivorous leaves they need to be kept moist and enjoy high humidity. When they have succulent leaves, usually during late winter, the plants need much less water. Keep the soil lightly damp. Some species can be totally dry if the air is very humid.

The plants can be propagated by carefully removing succulent leaves.  The best time is just before new carnivorous leaves appear in the late winter or early spring. Please see Propagation -- Mexican Pinguicula Leaf Pullings for instructions. The transition time between succulent and carnivorous leaves is also the best time to repot Mexican Pinguicula.

-- John Brittnacher

For more information please see:

Powell, Charles L. (1987) Mexican Pings. Carniv. Pl. Newslett. 16(4):106-110 ( )

Beckstrom, Marc (1979) A Search for Mexican Pinguiculas. Carniv. Pl. Newslett. 8(2):55-57 ( )

Lau, Alfred B. (1993) The discovery of a new Pinguicula from Ayautla, Oaxaca, Mexico. Carniv. Pl. Newslett. 22(1-2):26-27 ( )

Wix, Lloyd (1998) Pinguicula emarginata -- a variable and distinctive Mexican species. Carniv. Pl. Newslett. 27(4):121-123 ( )


Pinguicula ehlersiae during the summer. Note the leaves have drool-edges. The upturned leaf edges keep the digestive juices from flowing off the edge of the leaves.


Pinguicula ehlersiae during the winter. This is the same plant as the one above about 6 months later. It is somewhat smaller.
P ehlersiae flower
Pinguicula ehlersiae flower.
P cyclosecta flower
Pinguicula cyclosecta flower.

Pinguicula cyclosecta in the fall.  The leaves are carnivorous and have drool edges.

Here is the same Pinguicula cyclosecta plant in the spring at the same scale.  It has small, succulent, non-carnivorous leaves.

Pinguicula moctezumae sprouts. Note the cotyledons have glands! This may be common among Pinguicula but most other CP genera have cotyledons totally unlike their regular leaves. The red arrows point to something else not expected. They have a stem-like tap root with root hairs. While the presence of a tap root is the norm among plants, in Pinguicula, a tap root is only seen in newly sprouted seedlings. In the upper sprout you can see a typical Pinguicula adventitious root extending from the base of the first leaf formed.

Here is a Pinguicula moctezumae seedling a few weeks later. The red arrow points to the degenerating tap root/stem. The plant is squatting down into the usual Pinguicula position. Note the adventitious roots coming out of the bases of the leaves.


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