Some species of Drosera are so easy to propagate by leaf cuttings you can't help accidentally doing them. Occasionally you can find a pot with a broken leaf sprouting dozens of tiny plants. Occasionally. Not all species are what could be called easy and a lot of things can go wrong. But for most Drosera species, leaf cuttings are an easy way to propagate plants. Drosera spatulata 'Queensland' plantlets growing out of the center of a leaf cutting. Usually you get one plant per leaf. Why do leaf cuttings instead of propagating plants from seed? Leaf cuttings will produce exact clones of the parent plant. There is a lot of genetic variation that gets expressed in seedlings. You generally need to start many more plants than you want from seed to assure you get a few that are vigorous in your growing conditions. Leaf cuttings may be your only option if you want an exact copy of the prize plant that is already performing well for you or you want to propagate a sterile hybrid or a plant that otherwise won't produce seed. As a bonus, leaf cuttings tend to produce mature plants quicker than from seed. Not all Drosera species propagate readily from leaf cuttings. No one has reported success with Drosera regia leaf cuttings. For this species and many others with thick ropey roots, root cuttings can work well. It is also impractical to make leaf cuttings of pigmy and tuberous Drosera. The pigmies are usually propagated from the gemmae they produce seasonally. The tuberous species are best done by seed or sterile culture. The first requirement for leaf cuttings is having leaves in good condition. The best time for leaf cuttings is when the plants are growing vigorously. You want leaves that are fully open with lots of dew--probably the best 3 or 4 leaves on each plant. It is painful to do this to the best leaves on your best plants but hold the leaf in your fingers and use a razor blade or scalpel to remove the leaf as close to the base or stalk as you can without otherwise damaging the plant. It also best not to cut yourself. Some species such as the Drosera petiolaris group usually do best if you pull off the leaf taking the stipule with it. These species sprout new plantlets from the base of the leaf. But you are also taking a big chance damaging your plant. Fortunately, most species sprout the new plantlets from the middle of the leaf so you don't need to pull the leaves off. Don't like slime with digestive enzymes on your fingers? Get used to it or wear exam gloves.

Drosera filiformis leaf cuttings with plantlets floating in pure water. The second requirement for leaf cuttings is an appropriate medium for the leaves to live until they produce plantlets. Fortunately there are lots of options here. The cleanest medium for leaf cuttings is pure water. Float the leaves, tentacle side up in a cm or so of pure water in a small jar sealed with plastic wrap. If the leaves are too long to fit, cut them into whatever length does fit. Make sure you use pure water. That is distilled or reverse osmosis water. If the water gets cloudy, change it. The advantage of water over other methods is the leaves will survive longer in the relatively sterile water. This is especially important for ones that are slow starters. When the plantlets have small roots, plant them in their preferred medium such as peat/sand. Other mediums to use for the leaf cuttings are live sphagnum, dried long fibered sphagnum, peat, peat/sand, or sand. In other words just about anything that you can grow the adult plants in. The main criterion is that the leaf cuttings need to kept from drying out and should be partly covered by the medium to keep them in contact with it. You can put pots with the leaf cuttings in plastic bags or sealed terrariums, whatever will keep the humidity at 100%. The advantage of using mediums with peat are the peat can somewhat provide nutrients to the leaf and earlier to the plantlets. Live sphagnum is thought to protect the leaf cuttings from mold and provides a somewhat acidic medium. And you can leave the plantlets in the pots for some time as they are already in a preferred growth medium. The disadvantage of these media is they contain molds, cyanobacteria, and other organisms that may interfere with the health of the leaf cuttings. Also the leaf cuttings may move and dislodge themselves so you have to watch things more closely. Drosera prolifera is an easy species for leaf cuttings. The old leaves are red but still with dewy tentacles 4 months after being cut off the plant. Make sure you put labels on the jars or tags in the pots with species name and other information along with the date. The date on the tag is very important. It is going to seem like an eternity until something happens in the pots and you can confirm that by reading the date on the tag. The rest of the requirements for leaf cuttings are environmental: light, temperature, and time. The leaf cuttings need lots of light but you don't want to roast them. It is usually safe to put them under fluorescent lights but no closer than 8 inches or 20 cm. In a greenhouse it may be best to put them under the bench or in a shaded location. However there are species such as the tropical D. petiolaris group species that want rather warm temperatures. Now comes the real hard part: waiting and waiting and waiting. Don't overdo opening the bags. And don't stick your face into them. Remember we are trying to avoid fungus. Nothing much is going to happen for the first month or so. D. filiformis and D. binata may explode out fairly quickly the second month but others like D. slackii could hang on for 5 months and then condescend to do something for you. Maybe. Not all leaves will make it. You may want to remove ones that totally turn brown or get fungus. But don't give up and definitely don't begin mourning if there is any green or red left on the leaves. The thing that amazes me most is where the young plantlets sprout. It totally blew my mind to see the D. spatulata plantlets sprouting from the center of the leaf. I was told me that is what would happen but I still wasn't prepared for it. Right out of the center of the leaf... Other species like D. prolifera do sprout near the leaf edges where I expected but they will do it from leaves that look like toast! And then there is D. binata. Stand back! The plantlets were spaced one or two mm apart on the leaves. But most Drosera take their time, produce a few plantlets, and grow slowly. John Brittnacher